Bergen

Bergen is the largest Norwegian city we will visit.  The entire country is roughly the size of New Mexico with a population of just under 5 million people.  As a port city it developed early into a center of commerce primarily for moving fish to other countries.  Dried stockfish became economic currency and until the development of the railroad, Bergen remained Norway’s largest city.  Now Oslo, the capital, is the seat of power.

Bergen is finding new life by using its port as a cruise ship destination.  Trying to maintain the balance of Nordic life and catering to tourists takes diplomacy and patience on their part.  We relied on the Bergen Guide Service to help us understand the city.  They are an “official agency” and the guides are certified for their knowledge and their language arts.  Ours, Solveig Mohr spoke impeccable English, including idiomatic expressions and sarcasm. 

During our 2 hour tour (which lasted more like 2 ½) we learned about Norwegian and Bergen history, economics, political science and cuisine.  It was very enjoyable and the time passed quickly.  One of the sites most tourists visit is the Floibanen Funicular which takes you to the top of Mount Floyen.  Incidentally, at the base of the mountain there is an organic bakery which serves a delicious lunch which is very reasonably priced.  Called Godt Brod lets you pick out your favorite bread and then custom makes your sandwich to order. 

We did dodge of few sprinkles in the morning and again atop Mount Floyen, but that isn’t unusual in this climate.  Solveig (pronounced Soul-Vay) says the residents of Bergen sing two songs.  “Here Comes the Sun” and “Singing in the Rain.”  It seems that often those songs can be sung multiple times in the same day. 

Climatology

When you hear the phrase “rain forest” it conjures images of jungles, thick with vegetation.  There are different types of rain forests.  The type we are headed towards in Norway is a temperate rain forest.  Much like Alaska it yields rain, typically light, in abundance.  In the winter it produces lots of snow, especially around the mountains, which ultimately forms the glaciers.

The North Sea earns a reputation for a choppy, inhospitable body of water from sailors, but the conditions during this time of year are considerably less fearful.  In open waters this morning the seas are slight as are the winds.  The way I know we are in the North Sea is the drilling platforms which appear like convenience stores, periodically interrupted by navigation towers.

 

These towers behave like advanced technology buoys. 

Bergen, Norway is our first port of call.  Currently the forecast is for temperatures in the middle to upper 50’s and a passing shower.  That is what made our trip a packing puzzle.  In Paris and London we needed warm weather gear.  Incidentally, I am happy to report that French and British males are finally breaking down and wearing shorts when it gets really hot.  I easily joined their cultural revolution.  In Norway we will need clothing that is suited to temperatures which are 20 to 30 degrees cooler and frequently damp.  Visiting Alaska so often provides a reserve of clothing options designed for this visit.

There is six hours time difference between our current position on the east coast of the U.S.A.  We will get one of those hours back when we leave our final Norwegian port.  The rest is eaten up in jet lag on the return trip home.  The computer clock reminds me that even though we are getting ready to enjoy a late breakfast most of you are fast asleep.

One thing I like about being on a cruise ship is the return of bar soap and wash cloths.  Europeans enjoy shower and bath cleaning gels.  Not me.  I like a good bar of soap and a wash cloth.  Often I end up designating the smallest face towel to be the wash cloth.  I know they think we shower too often.  Maybe we do.  I am not advocating a change in approach.  Monday morning’s in the classroom during the spring semester can be confusing enough.  “Did I get re-assigned to athletics?”  However, all is right again.  Clean wash cloths magically appear in the bathroom.

The Cruise

We stopped by Stonehenge on the way to Southampton.  It is a Neolithic site.  As near as learned people can determine it was constructed over a period of 1500 years starting as early as 3,000 BC.  The most famous part of it, the rock outcroppings, appear to be at the center of a much larger burial site.  Although controversial, some of the grave sites have been exhumed and the remains studied to get more information.  There is some indication that for a period of time the site was also used for potential “healing” properties. 

The site is getting a major facelift.  Not the rocks.  Those are staying the same.  A new visitor’s center is under construction.  It is about a half mile away from the site.  More parking will be located there.  Also, a light rail system is under construction.  The road between the new VC and the site will close and everyone who wants to visit will board trams. 

Because Europe is on holiday the site was mobbed, but, overall, crowds were managed.  You can wander the site freely and there is always space to move.

 

After Stonehenge our coach took us to the port and we are onboard the Crown Princess.  Today and tomorrow we are at sea.  We are looking forward to the downtime.  Jan is enjoying the weather on our balcony as we sail out of the port area.  There were five major cruise ships departing for a variety of destinations.  Given that, you’d think that someone would work on the cosmetics of the port areas.  Our ship was berthed opposite a garbage processing facility.  Another ship is near the refinery. 

Big ships attract attention and everyone likes to waive farewell from on shore or on other boats.  It’s a pleasant custom to waive back and forth. 

 

JPS Navigation

To get around London I rely on a very accurate system.  The JPS -- Janet positioning system.  Here, JPS consults a map to locate our theater in the West End.  Not only did she get us there we walked right past a Mister Frosty truck and got two vanilla with flake. 

Translated that's soft vanilla ice cream with a block of chocolate stuck into it.  The ice cream is very smooth and very rich.

Matilda is playing in the West End and their promotion brags about their Tony Awards, which is a bit odd, but that's ok.

The theater is small.  It holds 1300 guests on three levels, but the seats are all pretty close to the stage.  The set design is carried throughout the theater and into the lobby, including the concessions.  It is an elaborate set with equally elaborate lighting.

There are so many young people in the cast it looks like there are four different leads who rotate.  Think of that poor director during rehearsals. 

We enjoyed the play and enjoyed seeing so many young people in the theater.  It would have been better if the small one behind Jan didn't keep asking her "mum" to explain the play, but let us appreciate youth as the play intends.

Up early tomorrow and off to Southampton via Stonehedge. 

The U.K.

If we had the will to do it high speed train travel is very convenient.  Eurostar averages about 150 mph (which isn't the fastest train speed in Europe) across the distance between Paris and London.  In fact, in Europe the Eurostar isn't considered a high speed train.  That designation is applied to the TGV.  Under 200 mph is ordinary.  It means you get from Paris to London in 2 hours and 20 minutes. 

At those speeds we could make it from Albany to New York City in an hour.  However, land acquisition and local opposition make rail improvements in the U.S. nearly impossible.  Most passenger traffic in our country is carried across track that belongs to freight companies. 

We are in London which is a way point to our cruise.  After we've chilled out a bit we will drift over towards Covent Gardens and the West End. 

Sacre Coeur and Palais Garnier

Karyn picked us up this morning with real croissants.  Jan bought one from a stand on the way to the Louvre a couple of days ago.  She said it tasted like it was made at Sam's club.  Not today.  It was delicious. 

Then we watched her maneuver through the narrow streets that surround Montematre.  Sometimes delivery trucks block streets, on a hill, that are one lane.  That meant backing down.  It all happened safely and cheerfully and we got to see the church and brilliant views of the city. 

For some reason the church does not want anyone to take pictures inside.  Not sure why unless there are services going on, but it probably has to do with the fact that most people do not know how to turn off their flash.  That's disruptive to people who may be praying.  It is a church first and a tourist attraction second.  The indoor image is from a site that provides downloads.

 

 

Sacre Coeur as seen from the Eiffel Tower earlier this week.

The Eiffel Tower as seen from Sacre Coeur.

We did some shopping.  Jan bought a small oil painting.  The artist was a character and posed for a picture with Jan.  His name was Thomas.  Below his picture is Karyn who is seated on chairs decorated in the colors of the French flag. 

Once the shopping completed we headed down to the Opera House or the Palais Garnier.  The exterior was featured earlier this week from our night tour.  Today we wandered around inside.  It's no wonder France suffered through a revolution.  The kings and emperors spent all of their subjects's money paying for these grand edifices.  I am glad they are preserved for everyone to see, but can you imagine the frustration of the citizenry, starving for food and watching their rulers not only want for nothing but to engage in gluttony?  The kings reportedly kept hundreds of mistresses in addition to a wife.  The anger of those women alone would be enough to launch a thousand ships, except that Helen of Troy had that covered already.

The blog is picture heavy this week thanks to the land based free internet in the apartment.  Starting next week I will be at the mercy of maritime bandwidth and there will be fewer pictures.  I'll try to be more witty.

Paris at Night Part Deux

Back out to look at Paris after the sun goes down.  We were guided tonight by Karyn Piasek, a lucky find through Jan's sister Sharon.  It's great to have someone who is truly local show you the city.  First of all we now know where there is good falafel in Paris.  Second, we got to eat some Berthillon ice cream, which is excellent.  Third, she pretty much parked where she felt like it. 

The pictures will speak volumes.